North to the Clyde

The final leg to our journey would be in three parts. The forecast was, as usual, for strong winds and rain. The wind was to be from south west so it was in a helpful direction. We decided to head for home as the other option, to go to Bangor in Ireland would have meant more windward work. The journey would be around two hundred miles and we would simply keep going. First north west to  the Isle of Man - then from Man to Corsewell Point at the top of the Mull of Galloway, and from there up the Clyde past Ailsa Craig, Aran, Bute and the Cumbries to home at Inverkip. The wind was relatively light for a while so we motor sailed for a couple of hours waiting for  it to increase. Towards nightfall we were approaching the Calf of Man and through the gloom we could make out the lighthouses and avoid the dangers. Through the night we took turns as usual - two hours steering, two hours in a bunk, two hours on standby ready to assist the helmsman. Sometimes we managed to sleep but sometimes it was just a doze.
The rain was pretty steady and we were all wet but with hot drinks and progress being made things were fine. Once into the Clyde we felt we were in home waters but it was still a long way to go. As we crossed our outward track between Bute and the Cumbries we felt justified in having a small celebration - Almagnac or something like that. At 10.30 we rounded the familiar breakwater of Kip and slipped into our usual berth. A nightcap and off to sleep.
I'll do a resume of thoughts and experiences but for now it is good not to be getting chucked about by the waves - especially while trying to put on damp foul weather gear. We have seen some beautiful sunsets and sun rises, we have seen a lot of wind and rain, we have seen new parts of Britain from a new angle, and we have coped with each other in a small space for a month. Twenty nine days was quicker than we had expected, the mileage was about 1950, the boat looked after us well. There was some glorious sailing even if some was of the white knuckle variety. We raised a bit of money for Myeloma UK. 
Thanks for your interest if you have been following us. Whatever shall we do next ?

Through Menai to Conwy

This morning Thursday 16th we left Caernarfon at 9 am in good weather with sun and wind. Derek our guide for the day pointed out the houses and hisyory of the coastline and took us through the "Swellies" where with leading marks one can avoid the rocks just under the water. It was scenic passing beneath the two bridges to Anglesey with the wooded shores on either side.  With a rising wind but  bright sunshine we left the straits and headed for Conwy marina. It has been a short day's sailing but good for  recuperation and scenery. Tonight we are going out for a meal - with  Derek and his wife.  
The forecast for tomorrow looks windy but in the right direction - south west mainly - but very probably wet. But what is new in that ?
We will hope to pass to the west of the Isle of Man and then go north to Bangor  in Ireland if winds are suitable. We are getting towards the last lap, if not already on it.

Snug in Caernarfon

Today, Wed 15th we had a superb day sail from Pwhelli to Caernarfon at the start of the Menai Strait. We have been joined by Derek  who has the  local knowledge to take us through the Swellies - a narrow rocky part of the strait.  We began today at 10.30 into a headwind, but once round and through the Bardsey Sound we had the wind at our back and with the sails goose winged (main out one side and genoa out the other) we sailed for 25 miles with a good wind from behind .  We had some difficulty identifying the buoys which marked the safe channel but once  they were found we made our way to Caernarfon for the night.   Now refreshed, we are snugged down  in the harbour  right under the walls of Caernarfon Castle. Tomorrow we  plan to go through the Swellies and then to Conwy Marina for thenight. The weather forecast is for south westerly winds - excellent, and bright periods.  On Friday, all being well we will continue north to isle of Man or Bangor - weather dependent.

Land's End in the Mist

We spent Saturday around Penzance ready to set off on Sunday morning. During the night the wind got up and the rain poured down. In the middle of the night I felt the boat's motion to be somewhat different and on looking it became clear that our stern warp had become undone. I decided not to rush out clad only in pyjamas and sensibly put on my foulies (foul weather gear) on top  before venturing out and tying up securely.
Sunday morning dawned grey wet and raining - so we set off!  We had to beat into the wind for a couple of hours before we would be able to round Land's End and head north for Wales. it was a hard slog for the first three hours. I asked David how he was and got the reply 'cold, wet, and miserable, but fine!' I think we all felt the same.  However thanks to the GPS and careful scrutiny of the chart, we were relieved when the correct buoys appeared out of the mist and eventually the lighthouse and rocks of Longships came into dim view and we knew we had rounded the point. We had been motor sailing with both engine and sail as this helps progress while bashing intolarge seas.  As the wind was now behind we were able to stop the engine and sail at speed on half the genoa. The seas were quite impressive and it was sometmes better not to look as the walls of water approached the stern. However Ad Infinitum did not let us down and continued to sail up and over even the largest. As day turned to night we took turns on the helm, usually in two hour stretches to allow others to rest or sleep. It was a lively night and quite an experience to be alone in the cockpit while the boat coped and drove down the seas. Earle morning I had my first pod of dolphins racing beside us and jumping in front of the bow. The others had each experienced this as well.
As morning grew so the rain and showers stopped and the sun came up. It turned into a beautiful day with blue sky and a fair wind behind us. At times we were able to use 'Kevin' the autopilot and had our meals together round the saloon table.
We had arranged to meet a friend of John who might be able to pilot us through the Menai Straits which are notoriously complicated and narrow. The marina for the Monday night was Pwhelli ,pronounced ? and we arrived there just as it was getting dark. Finding the way into strange harbours is rarely simple but we managed. The marina officer on duty was a young lad on his first day and he didn't know how to work the VHF so we could not get any advice - but he did appear and help us to find a berth for the n ight, apologising for his not responding to our calls.  We have been able to shower and wash clothes and will continue possibly to Carnaervon tomorrow with Derek as our pilot. The sun is shining and David and John have donned their shortsfor the first time this holiday. I have the trousers which can lose the bottom part of the leg so am keeping my options open!  We are now off to shop and explore Pwlleli.

Sunny Blowy Cornwall

The journey from Brixham to Newlyn/Penzance was another uphill story with the wind coming exactly from the place we wanted to go and significant tidal currents. The two major points on ther land we had to round were Start Point and the Lizard.  We left Brixham in rather pleasant conditions with sunshine and a good breeze and headed for Start Point. We managed tround before the tide changed and then spent a while trying to find the best angle to keep going west.  Through the night we alternated as usual with the watches and nibbled to keep up the energy.
In the morning a minor disaster - the water tap didn't work! No more cups of tea! Panic began to set in. However we have a separate emergency water container so we were able to continue drinking although dishes etc were done in sea water.
Rounding the Lizard was taking an age  and when at last we had almost done it and were ready to ease the sails and sail directly towards Penzance  - the wind changed to north west,  again on the nose. However we decided to be bold and increased our sail area and shot into the bay outpacing the tide. It was an exhilarating sail with lots of spray but good speed.
Having spent a day here in Newlyn and Pernzance we have managed to mend the water system which is up and running again, and we may even have solved a leak which had bothered us. So, all is again in working order.
Tomorrow, Sunday morning, we set off to go round Land's End and north towardsWales. It will be an early start in order to catch favourable tide. The winds are forecast to be strong again - so what's new?  It has been partly a rest day and I was very chuffed to visit the Admiral Benbow Tavern - Treasure Island lives etc.

Hard Slog to Brixham

We left Brighton on Monday afternoon the engine having been sorted by Kevin the engineer, as distinct from Kevin - what we call our auto pilot!   The one loss so far was that of Buzz Lightyear our figurehead who disappeared somewhere over the Goodwin Sands.
At first there was little wind and we motored offshore towards the south west. It wasn't long before we could see the Isle of Wight in the distance. To begin with we had the tide with us so made good time however as night fell our progress slowed. We have two ways of seeing our speed. The GPS (global positioning system) gives speed over the ground  and the boat's own speedo gives us speed through the water.  It is somewhat  disconcerting when we are slicing through the water at a good speed of six knots and then finding that we are only doing one knot over the ground. When it is the other way round then it is  most satisfying.  
We seemed to spend ages looking at the light off St Catherine's point on the Isle of Wight and going virtually nowhere.  As dawn came we got the tide under us again and the speed shot up again. The next point to go round was Portland Bill and it took many hours going virtually nowhere with the tide against us. The wind was getting up as was the sea and it was becoming a very bumpy ride. Going below and moving round the boat was quite an exercise and effort.   The next tide took us into Lyme Bay and then we battled for hours in the dark making slow progress against high seas and the current. We decided to go to Brixham as it was nearer than the Dart and had an entrance  which would be straightforward in the prevailing conditions. We arrived in Brixham around 7 am and after speaking to the marina staff  we put our heads down for some sleep. All night we had sailed with a scrap of genoa sail and some auxiliary engine. The engine on its own could not get us forward against wind and tide. It was good to tie up at Brixham after probably the bumpiest spell so far. It is always harder sailing against head winds as the boat bashes into the waves which can stop her and make movement on board quite difficult.
On the Wednesday evening we had dinner at Stoke Gabriel with Liz and Charles - David's in laws - and enjoyed  a walk round this quaint  English village near overlooking the Dart river with fabulous views.
Thursday brings us back to preparing the boat - doing minor repairs to the furling system and re roping the fenders. We set off aroung 3 pm for Penzance expecting to beat into the wind most of the time but at least there are no gale warnings in place.  This next leg is around 60 miles - as the crow flies - but however long if we have to tack back and forwards. There will be adverse tides but we will make best use of when they are with us.

Delayed in Brighton

We set off on Saturday 4th from Harwich having filled up with fuel, water etc. It was much easier following the buoys and avoiding the commercial traffic in  daylight. Wind force 5 to begin with - quite a strong breeze. There are lots of sandbanks in the Thames Estuary so we kept to the west before turning south. There are several cardinal buoys  showing where the sandbanks lie.  The forecaste changed and warned of a gale approaching - a force 8 but is was from the north east so we decided to keep going as the wind would be behind us. The sun shone for most of the day as the wnd strength increased. The Goodwind sands are a famous place for shipwrecks and lie of the Foreland point at the extremer south  easterly part of England. We kept well clear and rounded well off shore. The wind increased to gale force during the night and we reduced sail to a very small hankerchief of genoa. (fore sail). It was quite a thrill occasionally almost surfing down the waves with the lights of Dover to the west and innumerable ferries and ships using the traffic separation zones or crossing at right angles. Cruise liners - the Oriana was one, are brilliantly lit and look liker fairy castles on the horizon.
We took turns at helming and sleeping through the night and by the morning were both tired and exhilerated to have rounded the sands and gone through  Dover Straights.

During the Sunday we continued to have a good north easterly so sailed on, managing to eat a home made shepherds pie at  a considerable angle of heel.  However as we turned on the engine to charge the batteries there was a lack of water from the outlet so it was going to overheat again and had become a problem. It is necessary tro have a reliable engine both for battery charging but more importantly to keep us going if there is no wind ot to get us out of danger or into shelter when necessary.  We decide to make for Brighton Marina which is well equipped and we sailed there in dying winds, arriving around 3pm.  On  Sunday it was impossible to get an engineer so we are waiting for someone to help this p.m.  We think the impellor may have broken - it is part of the pump which pumps cold water round the engine as a coolant.

We hope to set off later today heading for the Isle of Wight and on towards the Dartmouth river where friends may give us a meal - hopefully!

Good morning Harwich

We are soon to be setting off across the Thames estuary and to the Channel. We arrived in Harwich on Friday after a 400 mile sail from Peterhead. It was  four days and nights at sea and we had many kinds of weather. There were various winds strengths and at last some sunshine which was most welcome.
We arrived at Harwich at the darkest part of the night around 2 in the morning and had a time finding the proper lights to guide us in. The wind was  getting up and the commercial traffic was busy. Harwich/Felixstowe is a very busy container depot as well as there being lots of yachts. I managed to speak to the marina office on the VHF radio and the on duty guy was helpful guiding us in. Not beautiful, but interesting.
Latterly I have been practising my cooking at an angle and am getting more used to it. The standard of food on board is pretty good and the sea air makes us hungry.
I'm writng this just before breakfast and we have put waypoints into  the GPS to help guide us through various sandbanks and round the Goodwin Sands into the channel proper.
Hopefully the warmth we are beginning to feel will be with us for a while. We have managed to dry most things and even did a laundry washing yesterday. Aren't we organised!
 
Must go and eat.

The Worst Weather

Location: Peterhead


There are four of us on the boat. John Mitchell, Alan Taylor, David Levison and myself. We have all had different experience of sailing in the past but only John has done any long distance sailing.
The weather so far has been 'the worst May for winds I have seen'  harbour master at Kinlochbervie. 'Atrocious' according to Stornaway Coastguard.
We set off from Inverkip on the Clyde on Friday evening, 20th May. We had intended to leave on the Saturday morning but gale warnings including the Mull of Kintyre made us alter plans and head for the Crinan Canal instead. 
Our route so far has taken us between Cumbrae and Bute then up Loch Fyne to Ardrishaig, where we arrived at 3am and settled down for a short sleep with the boat on the sea pontoon waiting to enter the first lock. We transversed the canal with two other boats and their crews - it is always helpful to do this with others as there is much winding of sluices and pushing of gates.
From Crinan we sailed through the Doris Mor and up the sound of Luing between Scarba and the island of Luing. Then past Easdale and north into the Sound of Mull which we sailed mostly in the dark. We did not stop at Tobermory but continued round Ardnamurchan point and north through the Sound of Sleet between Skye and the mainland. We stopped briefly at Kyle of Lochalsh for water and to prepare the dinghy - our means of getting ashore if there is no pontoon or harbour wall.
Continuing north towards Applecross and up past Raasay the wind grew very strong (gusts up to 60 mph) and we went looking for shelter in Upper Loch Torridon. We anchored there for the next day as storm force 9 or 10 winds were sweeping the whole country. I have never see spume blown off the surface of a loch like this and we worried whether the anchor could really hold the yacht which was swinging and taut on the anchor chain. The holding ground must have been very good or we would have dragged the anchor and been in some difficulty.
After a day's wait we sailed north for a day and a night to Kinlochbervie where again we had to wait while a gale blew through. On the 26th we left in the evening to sail round Cape Wrath and on eastwards to Orkney. It took a long time to round the lighthouse whose beam showed for many miles. At one point we passed a cruise liner which was of course lit up like a Christmas tree. 
The next day we arrived in Stromness where a folk festival was in full swing. An evening with a cousin and her husband was most enjoyable.
After a day in the Orkneys we set off through Scapa Flow and then across the Pentland Firth - renowned for its fierce tides and currents. Fortunately we timed it well and were given a lift of several knots of tide as we crossed the firth. Then on across the Moray Firth with strong winds and showers as always so far. With another gale warning imminent we tucked into Peterhead Marina for Sunday evening. Approaching the harbour into an increasing wind the auxiiary engine gave is an alarm and we had to stop it. Fortunately we think it was simply due to running on high revs for a while and, after time to cool, it again worked well.
 
Life on board is quite strange. We run a watch system while sailing longer distances and while two are sleeping, the other two sail the boat with one helming and the other available to help, change sail, make cups of tea and other vital jobs. We have been pretty wet and windblown for the whole voyage so far and we are trying to adapt to a small shared living space which is thrown around by waves in ways impossible to predict. I hope we are developing 'sea legs' as it is unpleasant to be nauseous with no way of leaving. Small daily tasks can be quite difficult with the boat moving and crashing into waves. We all have the bruises to prove it.   We have done some runnng repairs to the spray hood - which protects those in the cockpit to a certain extent, and there is always cleaning, cooking, passage planning, navigating and so on. We are well supplied with GPS and even have a chart plotter on board, which can show us where the boat really is in relation to rocks, the coast, deep water, and it can give us the bearing of any chosen destination. We have a VHF radio which means we can hear the coastguard stations, get weather reports and speak, if necessary, to other boats or ships.
We are hoping for better weather as we go south!

Chris Levison round Britain

Welcome to my cruise blog.  I am trying to sail round Britain in a 34 foot yacht both as a challenge and to raise money for Myeloma UK.  The boat is a Bavaria 34 and there are four of us making up the crew. She is a bermudan sloop with an auxiliary engine, radio, GPS etc.
I will try to keep people posted as to where we are and how it is going. There will be times when we are out of touch altogether but I will  update the blog when possible.
We are sailing in a clockwise direction beginning at Inverkip on the Clyde. We will make several stops on the way and much will depend on the weather. The forecast today is for strong winds and rain so it is not particularly inviting. We have yet to decide just when we will set off.